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Wax Finish for Ironwork
The following articles appeared in the June 2003 issue of the
Appalachian Blacksmiths Association newsletter.
Wax Finish, By Molly Schaffnit
Our finish recipe is derived from the one in Andrew's Edge of the Anvil:
3 or 4 oz. by weight of beeswax plus
8 oz. by volume of raw linseed oil.
Johnson's paste wax is used for the final waxing.
Since we apply our finish hot, we use raw linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil
uses heavy metal driers. We prefer not to breathe those fumes. The piece
is heated (just warm, not too hot) and the wax is applied with a mop (made
of a piece of rag wrapped around a stick and held with wire) or the piece
is just dipped in.
After cooling the piece is wiped off and set aside for two days or so.
After the finish is fairly dry we apply a final waxing with Johnson's
paste wax. The solvents in the paste wax dissolve any clumps of beeswax
and the final finish is smooth and attractive after buffing.
This is a very durable finish for indoor use. It will stand for a year or
more exposure in a protected area like a porch outdoors.
Sootypaws Forge
http://members.citynet.net/sootypaws/
Molly Schaffnit & George Monk
************************
Wax for
All Seasons, by Doug Merkel
A
significant portion of my work deals with the repairs and reproduction of
antique ironwork. Most of my customers want a natural finish that looks
old, protects the metal and which can be touched up if needed without lots
of work or fancy chemicals. To meet their needs I have modified a few
formulas that have been around for sometime into one that works for me and
my customers. For some of the larger jobs, I leave a small container of
the wax for use by the customer. It wears well inside and does quite well
outside, if applied correctly. I have a piece of ironwork with this finish
that has been out in the elements for over a year without rusting.
1 cup Johnson's Paste Wax
1 cup Boiled Linseed Oil
1 cup Turpentine
1/2 cup Shaved/pieces of Beeswax
2 tbsp. Japan Dryer
The first
three ingredients can be obtained at most any hardware store, such as
Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc. The Japan Dryer is used by artists to speed the
drying time for their oil paints, so is available at many art supply
stores. The beeswax can be obtained from a local beekeeper, beekeeper
supply shops, or blacksmith supply companies.
Mixing The
Ingredients
Put all the
ingredients into a glass quart jar, put the lid on with the retaining ring
very loose. A metal can may be used, but it needs a tightly fitting cover.
Either set up a double boiler or set next to your forge to get the mixture
to melt. Do not put directly on the heat source and watch out for open
flames. Once the ingredients are melted, tighten the lid ring and shake
like crazy until all the wax is dissolved and is a homogenous mix. As it
cools, it will become a soft paste. Keep the lid on when not in use.
Metal
Preparation
Remove all
scale with a power wire brush or by hand. if you want a dark finish,
remove the scale at a dull red and let the metal air cool until you can
just handle it with your bare hands. For a brighter finish, use a power
wire brush and remove all the scale while the metal is cold, then apply
enough heat until you can just hold it in your hand.
Application
Apply the
mixture with a brush, your fingers, or with a small rag. The heat will
melt the mix and it will run into every nook and cranny. Let it cool and
buff out with a rag. If you let the excess mix stay on the iron, it will
eventually harden, but every place that has excess will show up as a
bright spot. A second coat can be added to heighten the luster while the
metal is cold Just remember to buff off the excess with a cloth.
First
appeared in the March 1996 Appalachian Area Blacksmith Assn. Newsletter.
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........... Appalachian
Blacksmiths Association © 2007
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